The inviting aroma of freshly baked, sesame-coated bread rings has long been a defining feature of Thessaloniki’s streets, particularly in the early morning. These iconic street food delights, known as Koulouri, have been an integral part of the city’s culinary culture for centuries, with origins tracing back to Byzantine Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul).
Years ago, Egnatia Street, near the Arch of Galerius (Kamara), was home to a renowned Koulouri bakery that supplied countless street vendors. It was common to see long lines of people, including revelers finishing their night out, stopping by these bakeries at dawn for a fresh, warm Koulouri.
A young Koulouri vendor in front of the Church of the Holy Apostles, in 1952.
In earlier times, street vendors roamed the city with carts, loudly calling out, “Fresko xeropsimeno!” (Fresh, crispy-baked!). These traditional bakers and street vendors have now largely been replaced by mass production, making Koulouri widely available in bakeries and coffee shops.
Koulouri’s history stretches back to antiquity, when a circular bread called Kollyra was commonly eaten, particularly by enslaved people. Over time, the medieval Greek term Koulouri(o)n, a diminutive of Kollyra, evolved into the name we recognize today. Its signature sesame seed coating draws parallels with Simit, the bread rings sold by Ottoman street vendors in Constantinople. According to historical accounts from traveler Evliya Celebi, there were approximately 70 Simit bakeries employing 300 bakers in 16th-century Constantinople, showcasing the bread’s deep-rooted presence in the region.
The arrival of Koulouri in Athens can be traced back to the 1870s, introduced by vendors from Epirus. However, it was the influx of Asia Minor refugees in Thessaloniki (1922–1923) that truly cemented Koulouri’s place in Greek street food culture. Its simplicity and affordability made it an instant favorite among locals, eventually spreading throughout Greece.
While the traditional Koulouri of Thessaloniki remains a beloved staple, modern variations have emerged. Many bakeries now offer thicker rings, sometimes filled with ingredients such as feta cheese, cream cheese, tahini, chocolate, or bacon. Though these variations add diversity, they often lack the signature crunchiness and simplicity of the original sesame-coated bread ring. Interestingly, some bakeries label their products as either “Koulouri” or “Koulouri Thessalonikis”, implying a distinction. However, the original recipe remains the one brought by Greek refugees, retaining its time-honored taste and texture.
Ermidis brother’s bakery in Thessaloniki. Image courtesy of Vasiliki Eleftheriou, Photoglobe.
Fortunately, for those seeking the true taste of Koulouri, a handful of traditional bakeries still uphold the original methods. One such place is Ermidis Brothers’ Bakery, located in the Finikas neighborhood of Kalamaria Municipality. Established in 1963 by their grandfather Konstantinos, this bakery has been producing authentic, hand-twisted koulouri for over 60 years. Every day, they bake sesame-coated rings with a perfectly crispy exterior and a chewy, subtly salty interior—a taste that mass production simply cannot replicate.
There is something undeniably satisfying about biting into an authentic, freshly baked Koulouri. The crunch of the sesame seeds, followed by the soft, slightly sweet, and salty dough, creates a simple yet perfect balance of flavors. Although traditional Koulouri makers are becoming rarer, the essence of this centuries-old Byzantine-Ottoman-Greek delicacy remains intact for those who seek it. Whether you’re exploring Thessaloniki’s vibrant streets or visiting a renowned artisan bakery like Ermidis Brothers, make sure to grab a fresh Koulouri. Just remember to have some napkins handy—those sesame seeds tend to get everywhere!
Where to find Ermidis Brothers’ bakery
Address: Achilleos 1, 55134 Kalamaria, Thessaloniki
Business Hours: Monday to Saturday, 6 AM – 3 PM
Website: https://ermeidisbakery.gr
This article was written by Vasiliki Eleftheriou, a professional photographer and educator based in Thessaloniki. As the founder of Photoglobe, a photography school offering courses and seminars both in person and online, she inspires many aspiring photographers to develop their skills and artistic vision. Passionate about capturing human stories, her work blends photojournalism with portraiture, and she has participated in documentary projects that highlight everyday life and social issues.